WEBVTT

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My name is Fumie Kim. I'm a former intern in [at] CNN. We are now at Kagurazaka.
我是金．相澤。我是CNN的前實習生。我們現在在神樂阪。

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It is a very local place. You'll never find this place in any kind of guide book.
這是個當地色彩非常濃厚的地方。你絕不會在任何一本旅遊書中找到這樣的景點。

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Believe it or not, the neighborhood used to be much more bigger than Ginza or Shinjuku or Shibuya.
信不信由你，這鄰近區域以前比銀座、新宿或澀谷還要大許多。

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This is the famous shrine in Kagurazaka. This is the red shrine.
這是神樂阪有名的神社。這是座紅色的神社。

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Back then there used to be a lot of geishas, entertainers, performers [who] come [came] to this shrine and say [said] their prayers. 
以前常常有許多藝妓、藝人、表演者來到這座神社並且祈禱。

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I came from Australia three years ago to do a book called Graffiti Japan.
為了完成一本名叫《塗鴉日本》的書，我三年從澳洲來到這。

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I'm a photographer and graffiti artist.
我是位攝影師，也是位塗鴉藝術家。

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I would imagine they probably got a couple of thousand dollars to paint,
我會想像他們可能為了數千元而畫，

9
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but often the graffiti artists do it for free as well,
但這些塗鴉藝術家也常免費作畫，

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because they're gonna get their work up big in front of everyone in Tokyo.
因為他們將在東京每個人面前展示他們的畫作。

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In Japan there are two types of graffiti work.
在日本有兩種塗鴉畫。

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You've got the guys who go out bombing and doing it illegal [illegally],
你可能碰過一些人在戶外恣意並且非法塗鴉，

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and then you've got the commissioned graffiti work, pieces like this where you can...
而你也看過一些受委任的塗鴉作品，這樣的作品是……

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you only have to look at it and realize it is actually a serious...uh, an art form.
你只需看過一眼便知道它的確是個認真的……嗯，藝術作品。

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This kind of stuff is done by professionals, and this kind of work takes years to accomplish,
這樣的畫作是由專家畫成，而這樣的作品需要數年才能夠完成，

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and that's the difference between people bombing the streets and just writing their name.
那便是和街頭恣意塗鴉簽名的不同之處。

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There's definitely a cultural buzz happening here which it seems like...
在這激盪出了文化迸發，這有點像……

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it almost seems like the center of the world for creativity.
這幾乎就像是匯集創意的世界中心。

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Omotesando is essentially Tokyo's fashion parade.
表參道基本上是東京的時尚薈萃。

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It's a gigantic catwalk for the fashionable and the sophisticated in the city.
對於這城市中時尚和老練的人而言，這是個巨大的伸展台。

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You've got the global brands all lining up and down this boulevard.
你在這條大道上處處可見全球知名品牌。

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This is the main drag, the main boulevard, but just behind the first row of buildings --
這是主要街道、最繁華的街道，但在第一牌建築物之後，

23
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just in the back streets here -- you find a completely different world.
僅在這裡的小巷弄中，你會發現到一個完全不同的世界。

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It's a much more intimate network of little lanes, quirky shops, cafes.
這裡是小巷、奇特店舖和咖啡店更加緊密的網路脈絡。

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So, it's a much more kind of human quality in the back streets.
所以，在小巷弄中多了許多人文的氣息。

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Tokyo's an interesting place to live because the buildings are always changing,
東京是座很有趣的居住城市，因為建築物總是瞬息萬變，

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I mean much more rapidly than in any other city I've been in. It's almost like they're disposable,
它的改變比我所待過的任何城市都還要快速。這感覺就像他們是可拋棄式的，

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but the pattern of that change seems to be rather stable.
但是改變的模式似乎相當穩定。

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So, it's like a river. You're seeing the water rushing by all the time, but the river is always there.
所以，這就像是河流。你隨時都可看到河流流動，但是河流卻總是在那裡。

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That's really the best way I can think of the experience of being in Tokyo.
那是我能想到用來形容在東京的生活經驗最棒的方式。

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It's like it's continually changing, but it's somehow eternally the same. 
它好像不停地在改變，但卻始終如一。

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Mostly the city looks kind of random and chaotic,
大部分的時候這座城市看起來有點雜亂且混亂。

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but if you get down to the human scale, it actually gets very sensitive and quite responsive.
但是如果你留意人性的層面，它其實是相當敏銳且熱情的。

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It's a kind of a model of what a 21st century city could be.
它是二十一世紀城市的典範。

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It feels both traditional but also very, very modern, very contemporary.
它相當的傳統但也非常現代，非常地當代。

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And it's actually much more comfortable to live in than I think many people who haven't visited Tokyo might expect.  
我覺得它實際上住起來會比從未造訪東京的人所期望的還要舒適。

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The Japanese sometimes use the word nurui, which means lukewarm.
日本人常常用nurui這個字，它的意思是溫和的。

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It's like a bath that's not too hot, it's not too cold. It's very comfortable to be in.
它就像是不會太熱也不會太冷的洗澡水。待在這裡是非常舒服的。

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And in fact, many people never leave.
事實上，許多人從未離開。
