WEBVTT

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Roy Choi is a second-generation Korean-American. He lives in Los Angeles.
羅伊．崔是第二代韓裔美國人，住在洛杉磯。

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He's the owner / operator of four groundbreaking and much-loved food trucks,
他是四部備受喜愛的創新式移動餐車的所有人暨經營者，

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among the first to harness the strange and terrible powers of social media to alert customers to where to find delicious food.
是率先運用社群媒體那奇特又可怕的力量來通知顧客到哪兒尋求美食的人之一。

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The Kogi taco, double caramelized Korean barbeque short rib[s] on fresh corn tortilla,
高基墨西哥捲餅——將雙份呈焦糖色的韓式烤牛小排包在新鮮的玉米餅內，

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with salsa roja, cilantro onion-lime relish, and Napa cabbage romaine slaw in a chili soy vinaigrette.
加上莎莎醬、芫荽、洋蔥與萊姆佐料，以及搭配紅番椒醬油醋汁的大白菜蘿蔓生菜沙拉。

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Oh, yeah.
噢，太棒了。

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The rep for Kogi is that we go everywhere.
高基的代表特色就是我們什麼地方都去。

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We go to every single corner of the county and the city. We're not just going to the hip areas.
我們前往洛杉磯郡與洛杉磯市的每個角落。我們不只去新潮的區域。

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Why should you be excited about food trucks?
移動餐車為什麼讓人興奮呢？

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Because they allow creative chefs like Roy without a lot of money to start creating and selling their stuff,
因為這樣的經營方式能夠讓羅伊這種充滿創意但沒有太多錢的廚師，也能著手創造並販賣自己的餐點，

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introducing themselves to the world without having to gather up a million dollars or credulous partners,
把自己介紹給世人，而不需集資上百萬美元或是找好說話的合夥人。

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and they're affordable, they're democratic,
此外，移動餐車平價、民主，

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and they are faster, better and infinitely preferable to fast food like the king and the clown and the colonel.
又比漢堡王、麥當勞和肯德基等速食餐廳的速度更快、品質更佳，也遠比它們更討人喜愛。

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Dong Il Jang, however, is as unwaveringly old-school as you get.
不過，東一莊則是完全堅守老派作風。

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Roy and I sit down with Roy Kim, whose grandfather opened the place in 1978.
羅伊和我與羅伊．金一同坐下來聊聊，羅伊．金的祖父在一九七八年開設了這家餐廳。

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Like most Korean restaurants at the time, you didn't mess with the original, ever.
如同當時大部分的韓式餐廳，傳統韓式料理是不能亂搞。絕對不行。

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And this kimchi bulgogi bokumbap, basically kimchi fried rice, but it fries into the pan like paella,
這道是韓式烤肉泡菜炒飯，基本上就是泡菜炒飯，但是像西班牙海鮮飯一樣在烤盤裡炒。

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like so many great rice dishes, where that outer layer of crispy stuff is just the best.
如同許多美味的米飯料理，外層焦脆的鍋巴最好吃。

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You know, tableside cooking, I think people overlook that a lot. You know, this is like crepes suzette, filleting a Dover sole.
桌邊料理，我認為一般人很多都忽略了。這就像是法式火焰可麗餅，將多佛比目魚切片。

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Oh, man, this is ridiculously delicious.
老天，這實在是美味地太沒天理了。

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Across town in Venice is A-Frame, Roy's first brick and mortar.
在洛杉磯市另一端的威尼斯可以找到尖頂餐廳，這是羅伊的第一家店面式餐廳。

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This used to be a [an] IHOP.
這裡原本是一家國際鬆餅屋。

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Oh, yeah.
噢，對。

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So everything is really narrow.
所以什麼都是窄窄小小的。

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Hence the shape.
所以才會有這樣的造型。

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It's heavily influenced by local takes on Hawaiian cooking, not that you'd necessarily notice.
這裡深受當地版本的夏威夷料理所影響，但你不一定會注意到。

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Every dish designed to be eaten with the hands.
每一道菜都是為了用手吃而設計的。

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What's good?
哪些東西好吃呢？

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The baby back ribs are air-dried, braised, then breaded and fried.
嫩肋排經過風乾，以文火燉煮之後，再裹上麵包粉油炸。

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Lingcod tacos treated like shawarma.
斑鱈魚捲餅做得像沙威瑪一樣。

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Beer can crackling chicken -- it's brined, rotisseried, then air-dried like Peking duck then fried.
啤酒罐卡拉雞先滷過，經過旋轉烘烤，再像北平烤鴨一樣風乾，然後油炸。

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Within the borders of Koreatown, it's not just Koreans. There are new arrivals every day.
洛杉磯的韓國城裡不只有韓國人。這裡每天都有新進的人口。

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There is, in fact, an official Little Bangladesh right in the middle of K-Town.
實際上，在韓國城的正中央，就有一座官方小孟加拉。

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Oh, man, there's all sorts of stuff.
老天，這裡什麼都有。

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It's so good in here.
這裡真好。

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Yeah, this is gonna work. So, you're not short of options around here.
是啊，這一定會受歡迎的。所以，在這裡絕對不怕沒得選擇。

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Nah, you can get tacos across the street. Korean bibimbap next door, and then get goat stew.
是啊，對街就買得到墨西哥捲餅。隔壁又有韓式拌飯，然後還可以吃點燉羊肉。

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You can pray to Muhammad or Buddha.
你可以膜拜穆罕默德，也可以膜拜佛祖。

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The tiny mosque next door where services are held five times a day.
隔壁有一間小清真寺，一天舉行五次禮拜。

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Here at Swadesh, step right in for curried goat, samosas, tandoori chicken.
在斯瓦迪士餐廳可以吃到咖哩羊肉、三角餃、印度烤雞。

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Oh, yeah, and this -- Lahori fish curry with no small amount of chilies.
太棒了，還有這個——拉合爾魚肉咖哩，裡面可加了不少辣椒。

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It's such fragrant, aromatic, delicious food.
這種餐點香氣四溢、風味迷人，又如此可口。

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This is really good.
這真是太美妙了。

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A few blocks over, the iconic Filipino fast-food chain Jollibees [Jollibee].
在幾個街區外，就是著名的菲律賓速食連鎖店「快樂蜂」。

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Laugh all you want, but ask any Filipino;
儘管笑吧，但你問問任何一個菲律賓人，

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they love this drive-thru mutation for specialties like this fried Spam sandwich thing.
就會知道他們熱愛這家變種的得來速餐館，來這裡買他們的特色餐點，像這種油炸罐頭肉三明治。

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But it's the desserts where it gets really crazy.
不過，甜點才是真正瘋狂的部分。

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Oh, look at that. What is that?
噢，你看，那是什麼？

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That's halo-halo.
那是菲律賓椰奶挫冰。

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Oh, yeah, halo-halo.
沒錯，菲律賓椰奶挫冰。

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Dig deep and you hit delicious stratas [strata] of red beans, white beans and chickpeas, cubes of red and green Jell-O, young white coconut, shaved ice and...
挖深一點，就可以挖到那層美味的紅豆、白豆與雪蓮子、紅色和綠色的果凍塊、椰果、剉冰，還有……

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is that flan?
那是法式布丁嗎？

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It makes no goddamned sense at all. I love it.
這東西天殺的真沒道理。我愛死了。

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Pretty much any Korean you meet anywhere, you can take it for granted they like food,
差不多你在任何地方遇到的任何一個韓國人，大概都可以理所當然認為他們熱愛美食。

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that they're passionate about food, particularly their food, which of all the immigrant cuisines has probably been messed with the least.
他們對食物有熱情，尤其是他們自己的料理，在所有的外來料理當中，韓國料理大概是最少被改變的。

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Unlike many other new arrivals, Koreans seem to have been the most unwilling to accommodate western tastes.
不同於其他許多新進族群，韓國人似乎最不願意迎合西方口味。

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Maybe that's why it took us so much time to love this stuff.
也許這就是為什麼我們過了這麼久才喜歡這些食物。

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Beverly tofu house, like so many of K-Town's finer establishments, is tucked away in the corner of a strip mall.
比佛利豆腐館與韓國城的許多高級餐廳一樣，藏身於路邊商圈的角落裡。

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Sundubu is the thing to get, a fiery, tongue-searing, ass-burning tofu soup
到這裡一定要吃韓式豆腐鍋，這是一道辣得讓人舌頭刺痛、全身發熱的豆腐湯，

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that will make you forget every bad thing you ever thought about tofu.
絕對能夠讓你忘卻你對豆腐有過的任何不良印象。

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A spicy, spicy red broth of tofu are the base.
這道餐點以非常、非常辣的豆腐湯當做基底。

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We're taking soft tofu here, with a texture of like buratta, and from there you've got a handful of variations.
我們說的是嫩豆腐，質感有點像布瑞達生乳酪。接下來，便有各式各樣的不同變化。

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But the most common is with kimchi and a bit of everything -- beef, oysters, mussels, clams.
不過，最常見的做法是加入韓式泡菜，並且各種東西都來一點——牛肉、牡蠣、貽貝、蛤蜊。

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Oh, at table side, they crack an egg in there.
哦，他們還會在桌邊幫你打一顆蛋進去。

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Wow. Right in there. Cool. That looks completely awesome. All tofu should be spicy by my way of thinking. It's so good.
哇，就打在裡面。酷斃了。這看起來實在太棒了。我認為豆腐就應該是辣的。實在太美味了。