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Time for today's Business Traveller.

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Afternoon tea, a deli sandwich on the run, even that staple of the '90s, an amuse-bouche --

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they are all stepping aside for the big taste in the small bites.

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Richard reports from Madrid on tapas.

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Tapas, it's a meal you cannot escape in Madrid.

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It's everywhere. This is tapas central.

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This is the original concept of tapas. It comes from the Spanish tapa, which literally means "a lid."

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The food was put on the top of your glass and would be served in a tavern.

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How did we get from this to something far more grand?

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Right. So, this is a good place for us to start.

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This is a great place, yeah.

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Is it a meal? Is it a snack? Is it an appetizer? Is... what is it?

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Well, tapas is very flexible. It's a meal and it's also a snack.

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People in Spain [usually] go out, and you can meet your friends, maybe at 11 or 12 in the morning, and you can go for tapas.

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These tiny treasures have caused a culinary revolution.

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Tapa has to seduce you. Tapa has to be something elaborate, something...

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Look at that. Look at that!

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Ah, now that's gorgeous.

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Now that's, that's...

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That's telling you, "Eat me! Eat me!"

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That really is. That... we'll have to try one of those.

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To see how it's made [and] do a bit more taste testing, I've ventured to La Cesta,

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where the chefs are cooking some quail eggs.

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I think you need an expert tasting.

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Mmm, very good.

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It's the portion [that] describe[s] what is a tapa.

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I insist a tapa could be something you can eat once.

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In one bite?

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Yes.

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Is it rude if you don't share your food?

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Chef Llorente doesn't think so.

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Normally, for me, I need three, four for myself before dinner.

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Where did this idea come then tapas is for sharing?

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Well, you are going to share, 'cause you are going to ask for a dish of different tapas -- eight, nine, 10 tapas -- for four people.

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Finally, some clarification on the tapas etiquette of sharing.

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Tapas -- one piece for one portion for one person.

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You have to order more if you want to share, and I'm not about to.

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Back at the San Miguel Market, we ping-pong between the bars in the true Spanish way --

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a bit of tapas here, some more tapas there.

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I never know how much to order when I'm ordering tapas. It's always very difficult to know.

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Well, it depends on how hungry you are.

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But, you never know how big the piece is gonna be.

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No. Yes, because you can see, I mean, when you approach the bar, you can just see through the glass,

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and you can say, "One of these, one of these." You can order whatever you want.

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You are actually watching what you are going to eat.